Monday, July 2, 2012

Zanzibar, meh

Wow, I really looked forward to visiting Zanzibar last week, mystery, gorgeous beaches, history. well, not quite. First the good:  I made it on a 10 seater plane for the 20 minute ride without getting ill whoohoo! There was a bar in a hotel that faced the Indian Ocean that had a beautiful view, named Sunset Bar for good reason. I met some lovely people at 2 universities who are working on starting social work programs, visits that also made me appreciate the place I do work and others prior to this job. We had an interesting tour guide for the old part of the island, Stone Town, centuries old, very old-Arab traders supposedly arrived in the 8th century and one mosque is dated at 1107. Mostly Islamic but also Christian, Hindu and others.  It is known for spices and we went on an interesting spice farm tour learning how tumeric, cloves, black pepper, cinnamon, and fruits-tangerine, oranges, starfruit/jack fruit, and several I don't recall but were quite tasty. The most powerful piece of the trip was visiting the old slave market. Whole families taken from Congo and other locations ended up in Zanzibar, sold to Arabs and others. The Anglican Church came in and stopped the market around 1855. The Bishop had a large church built on the site.  I did wonder who built it-were the people released from slavery made to build it? Just wondering. It was powerful to stand in the "dungeon" for lack of a better word, where people where kept until they were taken upstairs to the market.  Ok, that was the good.

The first misunderstanding I had was that I was sure they were going to put us up in a hotel on a beach, even Saundra's leader got them into a lovely resort after being in a nasty hostel (no hot water, bath in a bucket with collected water since it only dribbles in the shower, clothes washed by hand-one pair of her pants clearly had mildew spots).  So a taxi picks us up and takes us to Stone Town; parks at the back end of a tired old hotel. Not looking hopeful. He walks us up an alley with rubbish and rocks and construction and mud to the front of the hotel. The Africa hotel, looks on the inside interesting, this must have been a Sultan's home, amazing painting on the ceilings, carved wood, heavy furniture. Ok, I'm willing to try it, though I really wanted that beach. They take us up 2 flights of big old wooden stairs, down a hall, through a door right off the bar down more steps into a narrow hallway with a mirror on the end. It's pretty dark, and the light over my door is out. So the manager opens my door-too dark to see the keyhole in heavily carved brass. The room looked over the ocean and that was nice. I went to wash up as we were to head right out to a university meeting. Ah, no water. I tell the manager who says it has to come down from the hotel above so their wells weren't filled yet, no problem (never trust this phrase again) we will get water later and it won't occur again. I asked if he meant ever again, during our stay, or what. He smiled, no problem! We come back at night and I do have water so I figured I'd better shower, hot water and all. the bathroom could be cleaner but I was glad to shower. I did notice every time I sat on the toilet, the back of the seat fell into my back while I sat and then when getting up. I am disappointed. I prepare for bed, pull back the blankets and pick up a pillow; the pillow case is ripped down one whole side which gave me the chance to notice the mildew/mold all over the pillow itself. Oh, and I could not get on the promised internet which I needed for work. I slept poorly, it was very noisy, furniture moving, some I could not tell what it was. Oh, that's right, my room is under the bar. Ok, I wake to meet K at 7:30 because he made all the plans and decided that we should eat then and head out to the next school. this is a pretty small island, it shouldn't take long, I asked if he had checked with them about us being there so early. No problem. I go upstairs to the restaurant for the included breakfast. A good thing-big bowl of fresh fruit-mango, papaya, guava, pineapple, watermelon yum. Then the menu-banana pancakes with chocolate sauce? no. Several types of eggs, err no not since my last experience. Ah, "bakery goods" and coffee (I think, tasted good but I question whether it was really brewed). This turned out to be a big plate with a few slices of bread which turned out to be the best thing, then some muffins and rolls all crumbly dry old.Oh, did I mention that I was there at  7:30 and no one, no guest no worker was there? And that I finally after about 45 minutes went back to K's room to see what kept him. He was brushing his hair and happily smiling and said he'd be up shortly. Oh, and I did forget to mention that when I woke, there was.....no water...and...no electricity. No problem!  K didn't seem troubled and laughed when I asked if he had, oh it just came on. (and yes I've gone through the whole thought process that I don't know if he has water and/or electric at home and that almost anything is likely better. But dang that was not part of the payment plan for the rooms!).  Again I complained, he smiled/laughed a little. I said we did not reserve a hotel with the possibility of having no electricity, no water, no internet (and moldy linens). I was ready to check out and pay for myself at some Hilton or something. Well the manager and K. speak to each other, I can tell it's about me because they keep saying "mama" or "madam". And we end up being taken to their other hotel the Zanzibar up a few alleys. But that I'll save for another blog because this is long and I'm tired since the project people set up a 4 day training I'm to do starting tomorrow morning after being gone for 5 days, returned on Saturday.
Think I'll post photos in a separate post. Have a good day!

Sunday, June 24, 2012

Fun Sunday

Ahh. So glad a friend came and so glad I'm making friends. Anna was to join Saundra and I at a restaurant on the ocean today but her mother developed malaria and she took her in for treatment. Quite a few people I've met have had malaria, seems almost like a flu here as often as it seems to go around.  I'm grateful for the bug stuff I've been using, switched to a more natural one to keep the mosquitoes away and it has worked, a miracle considering how many bites I get in Iowa usually.  Saundra and I met at the Mediterrano restaurant without Anna since she was caring for her mom (who is the same age as me.sigh) It was quite lovely, right on the Indian Ocean (see photos).  We shared humus, a piece of steak and mashed potatoes and a bottle of wine. Next time I would not get the meat, tough, needed to be sliced into little bits. Yummy mashed potatoes though, we mixed in the garlic that came with the humus. very nice.  Then we walked on the beach, ended the day at a "mall" supermarket and target/walmart kind of store. We dropped off Saundra first so I could see the hostel she is staying out, just ok. but there is a dribbling shower and the shopping trip was for a plastic tub to go with the pail she'd fill up for her cold water bath.  Pretty sad, also the hostel is near nothing, it is on the campus of the Univ. of Dar es Salaam but they can't walk alone outside the gate, even in daylight, limited dribbling cold water, and no internet. Poor for faculty and students, many of whom have contact with family only via email or skype with no or little phone capabilities. Anna had told someone at work that it was not a good place to put faculty and students up. One person asked if it was safe though. She said yes, there is a guard with a gun. Hmm, reassuring eh?  I am, again, grateful for where I am staying.

The Indian ocean-quite warm, it felt great. The sand is that soft sugary sand. But some areas have garbage, others just seaweed. Or that eel (see photo). Kids were playing in the waves, jumping in the sand. Some things are the same across the world.








Saturday, June 23, 2012

Bits and Pieces

Ok, gross, there was just a tv ad for snail "gel" to spread on your face and body-gets rid of wrinkles, brown spots, stretch marks, smooths the whole body. EWWWWW

Today, Saturday, I went with Anna and Rama (the contract driver) drove to check out a conference facility. It was a long drive, or maybe it was the traffic. This road is the busiest one in Dar-the main road to and from the rest of Tanzania so there are many many vehicles and humongous trucks, over-packed buses, tuk-tuks (sp?), pedestrians, on and on. Seemed about 2 hours but I'm still fascinated looking at the places people live and shop and the trees and mud and ditches.  This road has some ditches that were concrete. some still being dug out and some dirt.  I'm guessing they are for rain runoff since everything would drown in the rainy season, I'm not sure what else it's used for. Oh, then again, I did see a boy climb down into a ditch (like the other day, 5'? more? seem at least as deep as I am tall), he walks over to the drain pipe (dirt on top forms a bridge for pedestrians and vehicles between road and shops), and unzips his fly. Then I saw an adult man do the same.  Once again the conveniences are for men!!  And so this was a lesson about drainage, water and sewer supplies, cleanliness, etc.

We have to drive into this area of "shops"-shacks, beach umbrellas, stalls really where folks are selling food, clothes, material, buckets, brooms, bicycles and tires, cars and car parts.  A very bumpy drive over rocks and big holes and trying to avoid people and vehicles. We carefully follow up a hill and here is this building, behind a guarded gate of course.  It's plain, looks like common grey office buildings, with a tiny reception desk and a larger office where we are led to the person to negotiate with . She takes us on a tour, outside, down several short stone staircases into a little courtyard surrounded by doors to rooms. Really looked like a convent to me. ok, what I guess a convent looks like. She shows us 3 rooms. convent-like. One bed, concrete walls and floor, overhead fan, mosquito net, stall shower, the world's smallest sink, no towel. Oh, and no windows. Didn't feel clean and I was just thinking, yes I'm spoiled, I cannot see me staying here one night never mind possibly a week! Am I spoiled? The meeting rooms were small, each in a separate building, too small, then we stopped at the more public bathroom. Oh kayyy, hole in the floor.  A little voice is going "please please Anna, no no no not here".  We returned to the car, thankfully she shook her head, nope, not good enough for her either, she even mentioned the outside walls of stone had no upkeep.  I was soo grateful!  tomorrow morning (Sunday) we are going to try another place, leaving at 9am.

 Roads are pretty scary, I've never seen trucks, cars, buses so over-loaded that they tilt. We were behind a truck that had lumber piled on the back, there were ropes tying the bundle but they bounced around, tilted towards the road, and no, no little red flag on the end.  Then the bus in front of us, I thought maybe the road tilted but nope. It was the weight in the bus--people stuffed in hanging out doors and windows. Then it turned the corner and tipped. Quite a bit. But the driver caught it somehow and it just went on. Construction crews on very slanted roofs framing floors that are off kilter. Things I would really want photos of so they can show themselves. But, from a moving car with blacked out windows  it's hard to take pictures.

It is these moments I think about those tea party & repugs clamoring about less government and here we are packed in traffic and police types or army? or troopers? are pulling cars and trucks over not for bad or unsafe driving but to see if they are insured, issuing tickets you can pay on the spot. The little corruptions. So here is the govt that has laws but people don't pay attention-stop lights & signs, would they really like to live with coal trucks, lumber trucks, buses, crashes --really, the newspaper prints the license plates of cars in accidents, including when someone is killed (common), No sewer systems, very few paved roads, lots of potholes (today the one we always drive around was filled with big rocks... thanks for helping there.  No street lights, no control over public transit or how many people fit in a bus, ferry, cars with piles of mattresses tied to the roof or pouring out of the trunk, I saw a Masai man on the street with a very sturdy knife in a holster on his hip, blade was about 2 ft, really, they are tall very thin people, and nobody is disturbed, many hire them for guard work-they are warriors.  The richest have kids in private schools and live behind walls and guards. The poor are outside cutting the grass with scythes. It suddenly occurred to me that I never hear lawnmowers, they cut by hand with blades.  I see here how things we take for granted, even down to whether we are ok driving next to a truck towing 2 huge tanks of fuel, or the tallest truck I've ever seen.  Those "little govt" people would wimp out even with private drivers, schools, homes, etc.

On my bathroom window  this am. Thought it was a leaf. 2-3 inches long. Gel huh?

OSHA shot of the day. Ladder leans against tree, guy is in tree after climbing ladder or standing on top of ladder and is now cutting branches

mmmmmm snail gel
Ok--couple of photos

Friday, June 22, 2012

My mind strays sometimes...wonder if we could do glass here and sell
 it, photos, art, whatever. But the big difference is these folks have
  to do this, there is not an alternative way to live and would I be
  stealing from them?  Then I think, maybe  I can learn to sell myself
  and what I do with the glass, photos, etc. and I can do it at home. I
  have bought some material which looks a bit wild to me--big design. I
  can have a tailor make some stuff out of it for little $, and still
  have enough material for a wall hanging or whatever. The patterns I
  see are amazing and it has been making me think about stained glass
  again. Using the patterns as a model for stained glass would be wow.
I fell for all the purple and different colors in this material, every trip I buy something I may regret. This may be it, but I'll have a tailor make something or hang it on a wall. What do you think?
  And theirs are batik, paint, silk screens, dyes. cow horns carved or painted (got me, I guess cows here have horns or they don't distinguish female/male)
  carvings and wood carvings (a lot of the same everywhere but still
  beautiful). And they don't have all sorts of fancy tools or have to
  have workshops be "just so" like in those glass or woodworking
  magazines. And the sewing machines, those really old black ones we
  consider antiques. Important to remember-I don't need a lot to make
  lovely things, it's a distraction. 
   I tried drawing for the 1st time over the weekend
and the judging in my brain, wow, it is so limiting. What do the>crafts people
and artists think here? Does the need for $$ and food and and keep them from creating? Though there are similar patterns, there are a lot of choices, but do they do what white people will buy or just do for the creating?

Sometimes I have to wonder, if every booth has the same carved wood pieces, are they really made in China?  I was told China has factories here where they make the crap that we get that says "made in China" so is that what these are?

While we wandered the booths, Saundra started asking the sellers if they sell fans. no one did. I thought this would be a great idea, we both did. It gets very very hot, even if the locals don't use them the visitors would buy them as souvenirs  and to move air around, especially in those hot crowded together booths. Today I learned that a chef came here and started buying up the property around his restaurant, he build these warehouse kind of thing and rents all these tiny booths to people to sell things. It would take hours to wander through all of them, it is hot and close inside. And now there is a Doubletree hotel, another lovely hotel, shops, and restaurants on the bay and the owner made his fortune.

It's much like colonialism, white people from Europe, US, corporations come to make money, big money even from starting small. Quite a few artists seem to be represented by foreigners, others are interested in finding dealers who will sell their work. There is a rumor that George Bush has bought a ton of property to develop on the Indian Ocean shore, and that he owns some oil or mining companies, or perhaps water since he bought a big piece of land in South America (Peru?) that is over a large fresh water source. So, where can people go? How can values change or how can people learn?  Certainly the claims of faith don't fit the business or behaviors.  But, a good piece of news--Anna with whom I work, met some people who are developing in her family village, copper mines I think, she walked over to the owner and told him he needs more than geologists, he needs social workers to advise him how to help the people, e.g. hospitals, schools, etc.  He has hired her as a consultant for good $ that he wants to do better for the people. You just never know.

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Tuesday afternoon...

I woke up this morning to no electricity, I realized it went off sometime last night. This means the hot water heater is off too so I was set to wet my hair and do a very quick clean of parts of me. There was still hot water so I felt lucky, more so because by the time I was done, water was down to a dribble. The guards re-set the breaker and all was on again. Then off. Then on. And it was just my little house not anyone else. I went into the office, spent several hours doing searches on teaching people how to put together syllabi and make class schedules when you have no textbooks (hmm. challenge). Got home and they were working on the electrical system, said my electric went on/off all day. It's nice now, comfy and I can cook. Remember-even if you have a gas stove, if it has an electric starter it won't want to light. And I guess they have electric water pumps.

There has been a water crisis in Dar, ours was "getting low" according to Bridget (landlady not dog) and the staff may have to start washing clothes by hand in buckets. I have seen women doing this on the roadside in front of compounds and in front of their homes. I had another privilege moment-people I'm working with have had no water for days, the driver 5 days which means there are others in the office in the same predicament. Then I tried filling up my water bottle in the office, there was none. Then a co-worker said he and his wife eat out too much but he will buy gas for the stove at the end of the month. It is one thing to hear about the everyday "inconveniences" like electric going out or water stopping, it is another to live with it. I am lucky with so much at home, and even here where I get to live. 

Here is another neighbor who met me on the path to my door. Ick. The owner said no matter how many they kill there are always more. hmm. not only couldn't I stand doing it, I'd hate to see a dead smashed one.  Big, very big. maybe 3 inches, I was able to see a bit of grass it was "chewing" on. I prefer the lizards and definitely the birds.




Monday, June 18, 2012

Fun weekend in Dar

What a good weekend, my friend from Western KY, Saundra is here now with 8 social work students. Unfortunately, she was not part of the planning so they are in an icky hostel near the Univ of Dar es Salaam and not much else. But they do have monkeys in the trees there, she is not thrilled with it.

There is a water emergency right now in Dar, meaning, according to my folks here, that they cannot get water replenished and the prices are going up by @ 30%. politics. So, Saundra has not had a hot shower since arriving last week, bathing by bucket when there is water, and that has not been hot. My landlady (there's got to be a better word) said we are getting very low and the housekeepers may have to do laundry by hand soon. Which is what Saundra has had at the hostel.

So, I took Saundra to the Slipway, tons of booths and people selling cloth, batiks, traditional kangas (used as a wrap/skirt or to make shirts, dresses, etc), wood carvings,the tinga tinga art (very bright intense acrylic paintings with amazing colors, shapes, animals, people, etc)And she is one of my "worst"/"best" shopping friends, someone with whom I always end up buying stuff and having fun. And she was much better at bargaining (so HA to those stereotypes about Jews). Then we went to the restaurant on the bay in the same center, delightful red snapper, sauteed veggies still crunch-worthy, and yummy roasted potatoes (there's a picture but not a good one). A long day from 3 till @9pm then back to my little house so she could take her first Tanzanian shower. We decided, at our ages we have done the hostel, peeing and washing in buckets (not the same one) and now we want and deserve comfort, we work hard for the money!   Hot showers, nice hotel/motel room, good food, etc. It was wonderful how excited she was about the shower and my surroundings. Also a good lesson to me--I am so fortunate to be here, have this really nice little place to live, hot water. on and on. 

Whoever planned her trip with sw students was clearly not a social worker, they will visit the same orphanage two different times, see some sights and stay in a hostel needing serious updating with nothing around and away from people and social work schools and agencies they could visit.  Anna in my office and I talked about it, she is arranging for the students to come to our offices next week to learn about the services and we will invite local social work students . There is so much they could experience here within agencies, the govt social service agencies, issues, etc.  I'm glad I was able to introduce Saundra and Anna, their trip will be better and now Saundra has a taxi driver to trust and get away from the hostel.

We stayed up late, drank wine, looked at the goodies we bought, and had a big old time.  And back to work today. So I have some duties to get done: Monday Saundra will bring her students to the office in the afternoon. In the am we have a meeting with the govt accreditation body reps. Then Tuesday I am off to Zanzibar!  I will go with our local volunteer, he is quite pleasant but it's been a long time since I traveled with a stranger and a male at that. But it will be a good break-Wed and Thurs we meet with 2 universities, then don't return until Sunday. BUT, on Monday I have to be prepared to give a workshop for people from 12 schools on what a syllabus is and how to write one. Hmmm, a new one for me.  They will be in Dar for 10 days so I'm looking at spending about 5 days between the workshop and consultations on "lecture" notes and classroom activities/assignments, oh, and what to put online for one school. Ready or not here I am!! But also, what an experience!

Saundra at the bar at our pool





Today's photos---Saundra and I and whatever else I feel like posting :-)

Sunday, June 17, 2012

Lazy Saturday,
ate a lovely pear for breakfast. So far, the fruit has been amazing here. Although I was not thrilled with the oranges, they were dry and not so tasty, the rest have been great-pear, apples, pineapples, mangoes, watermelon, a great avocado today-usually the ones we skip at home because they aren't so good with the smooth skin and larger than typical. But it was yummy, along with the biggest juiciest lemon I've had in a very very long time. Just have to wash them well and peel most of them.

For dinner I actually cooked, well a little. Left over rice, a baby purple eggplant and a tiny white one, sliced ginger (also not at all dry), garlic all sauteed with olive oil, a touch of soy sauce and I threw in some cashews (grown here!) and a few of the wasabi almonds I brought with me from home. Pretty good if I do say so myself.

Just laid around today, sat at the pool awhile reading and playing with my camera (results below), even a little drawing. I felt good, I think I'm getting acclimated and more relaxed. I may get together with Saundra tomorrow, meet for lunch and maybe cruise crafts. I am feeling so fortunate that I am well cared for here. She is here from Western KY and is living in a hostel (which, if you happen to know Saundra is pretty hard to believe) with no hot shower, sometimes no shower and they wash clothes by hand and less to do where she is near the Univ. of Dar es Salaam. I invited her over for a shower and that I could likely throw some clothes in with my laundry. Then, reading this morning, the electric here went down. I was talking to Bridget the landlady and she said they are close to being out of water for the plumbing in all of our houses. Apparently the govt in Dar is saying they've run out of water and there will be a price increase. So she said they may have to wash clothes by hand for several days. She showed me the huge above ground and underground water tanks they use for the compound, pretty amazing.  But, oh no I just told Saundra to come here!  They already wash her clothing by hand she does not need to come here for the same. lol,  Oh well. At least it's a bathroom with privacy and any amount of hot water would likely be better. We'll see.  

I finished another mystery today, so glad for the kindle and that, even though I cannot download films, tv shows, or music I can get books and some games.  And the folks who own the place introduced me to a new yummy South African wine, Blackberg, have never seen it in the US, well, at least in Cedar Falls :-).

Ok, onto pictures from around the compound...

have several photos of these, very pretty berries but don't know if they are edible

he looks very flirty here, but he just woke up

leaf

another recycled Dhow  These are traditional boats, the bar, the benches, assorted pieces around the pool are made of these.  Another thing I'd like to bring back....furniture, tables made of this worn, strong wood,  lots of lines, cracks, worn spots in each piece---history

laying around on a hot day. This is Maxwell the sweetest rottweiler I've ever met. Only problem is that he doesn't realize how big he really is and wants to jump up on people, he runs up and leans against me, the first time I almost fell from the unexpected weight. The 2 dogs compete for love and petting