Sunday, June 24, 2012

Fun Sunday

Ahh. So glad a friend came and so glad I'm making friends. Anna was to join Saundra and I at a restaurant on the ocean today but her mother developed malaria and she took her in for treatment. Quite a few people I've met have had malaria, seems almost like a flu here as often as it seems to go around.  I'm grateful for the bug stuff I've been using, switched to a more natural one to keep the mosquitoes away and it has worked, a miracle considering how many bites I get in Iowa usually.  Saundra and I met at the Mediterrano restaurant without Anna since she was caring for her mom (who is the same age as me.sigh) It was quite lovely, right on the Indian Ocean (see photos).  We shared humus, a piece of steak and mashed potatoes and a bottle of wine. Next time I would not get the meat, tough, needed to be sliced into little bits. Yummy mashed potatoes though, we mixed in the garlic that came with the humus. very nice.  Then we walked on the beach, ended the day at a "mall" supermarket and target/walmart kind of store. We dropped off Saundra first so I could see the hostel she is staying out, just ok. but there is a dribbling shower and the shopping trip was for a plastic tub to go with the pail she'd fill up for her cold water bath.  Pretty sad, also the hostel is near nothing, it is on the campus of the Univ. of Dar es Salaam but they can't walk alone outside the gate, even in daylight, limited dribbling cold water, and no internet. Poor for faculty and students, many of whom have contact with family only via email or skype with no or little phone capabilities. Anna had told someone at work that it was not a good place to put faculty and students up. One person asked if it was safe though. She said yes, there is a guard with a gun. Hmm, reassuring eh?  I am, again, grateful for where I am staying.

The Indian ocean-quite warm, it felt great. The sand is that soft sugary sand. But some areas have garbage, others just seaweed. Or that eel (see photo). Kids were playing in the waves, jumping in the sand. Some things are the same across the world.








Saturday, June 23, 2012

Bits and Pieces

Ok, gross, there was just a tv ad for snail "gel" to spread on your face and body-gets rid of wrinkles, brown spots, stretch marks, smooths the whole body. EWWWWW

Today, Saturday, I went with Anna and Rama (the contract driver) drove to check out a conference facility. It was a long drive, or maybe it was the traffic. This road is the busiest one in Dar-the main road to and from the rest of Tanzania so there are many many vehicles and humongous trucks, over-packed buses, tuk-tuks (sp?), pedestrians, on and on. Seemed about 2 hours but I'm still fascinated looking at the places people live and shop and the trees and mud and ditches.  This road has some ditches that were concrete. some still being dug out and some dirt.  I'm guessing they are for rain runoff since everything would drown in the rainy season, I'm not sure what else it's used for. Oh, then again, I did see a boy climb down into a ditch (like the other day, 5'? more? seem at least as deep as I am tall), he walks over to the drain pipe (dirt on top forms a bridge for pedestrians and vehicles between road and shops), and unzips his fly. Then I saw an adult man do the same.  Once again the conveniences are for men!!  And so this was a lesson about drainage, water and sewer supplies, cleanliness, etc.

We have to drive into this area of "shops"-shacks, beach umbrellas, stalls really where folks are selling food, clothes, material, buckets, brooms, bicycles and tires, cars and car parts.  A very bumpy drive over rocks and big holes and trying to avoid people and vehicles. We carefully follow up a hill and here is this building, behind a guarded gate of course.  It's plain, looks like common grey office buildings, with a tiny reception desk and a larger office where we are led to the person to negotiate with . She takes us on a tour, outside, down several short stone staircases into a little courtyard surrounded by doors to rooms. Really looked like a convent to me. ok, what I guess a convent looks like. She shows us 3 rooms. convent-like. One bed, concrete walls and floor, overhead fan, mosquito net, stall shower, the world's smallest sink, no towel. Oh, and no windows. Didn't feel clean and I was just thinking, yes I'm spoiled, I cannot see me staying here one night never mind possibly a week! Am I spoiled? The meeting rooms were small, each in a separate building, too small, then we stopped at the more public bathroom. Oh kayyy, hole in the floor.  A little voice is going "please please Anna, no no no not here".  We returned to the car, thankfully she shook her head, nope, not good enough for her either, she even mentioned the outside walls of stone had no upkeep.  I was soo grateful!  tomorrow morning (Sunday) we are going to try another place, leaving at 9am.

 Roads are pretty scary, I've never seen trucks, cars, buses so over-loaded that they tilt. We were behind a truck that had lumber piled on the back, there were ropes tying the bundle but they bounced around, tilted towards the road, and no, no little red flag on the end.  Then the bus in front of us, I thought maybe the road tilted but nope. It was the weight in the bus--people stuffed in hanging out doors and windows. Then it turned the corner and tipped. Quite a bit. But the driver caught it somehow and it just went on. Construction crews on very slanted roofs framing floors that are off kilter. Things I would really want photos of so they can show themselves. But, from a moving car with blacked out windows  it's hard to take pictures.

It is these moments I think about those tea party & repugs clamoring about less government and here we are packed in traffic and police types or army? or troopers? are pulling cars and trucks over not for bad or unsafe driving but to see if they are insured, issuing tickets you can pay on the spot. The little corruptions. So here is the govt that has laws but people don't pay attention-stop lights & signs, would they really like to live with coal trucks, lumber trucks, buses, crashes --really, the newspaper prints the license plates of cars in accidents, including when someone is killed (common), No sewer systems, very few paved roads, lots of potholes (today the one we always drive around was filled with big rocks... thanks for helping there.  No street lights, no control over public transit or how many people fit in a bus, ferry, cars with piles of mattresses tied to the roof or pouring out of the trunk, I saw a Masai man on the street with a very sturdy knife in a holster on his hip, blade was about 2 ft, really, they are tall very thin people, and nobody is disturbed, many hire them for guard work-they are warriors.  The richest have kids in private schools and live behind walls and guards. The poor are outside cutting the grass with scythes. It suddenly occurred to me that I never hear lawnmowers, they cut by hand with blades.  I see here how things we take for granted, even down to whether we are ok driving next to a truck towing 2 huge tanks of fuel, or the tallest truck I've ever seen.  Those "little govt" people would wimp out even with private drivers, schools, homes, etc.

On my bathroom window  this am. Thought it was a leaf. 2-3 inches long. Gel huh?

OSHA shot of the day. Ladder leans against tree, guy is in tree after climbing ladder or standing on top of ladder and is now cutting branches

mmmmmm snail gel
Ok--couple of photos

Friday, June 22, 2012

My mind strays sometimes...wonder if we could do glass here and sell
 it, photos, art, whatever. But the big difference is these folks have
  to do this, there is not an alternative way to live and would I be
  stealing from them?  Then I think, maybe  I can learn to sell myself
  and what I do with the glass, photos, etc. and I can do it at home. I
  have bought some material which looks a bit wild to me--big design. I
  can have a tailor make some stuff out of it for little $, and still
  have enough material for a wall hanging or whatever. The patterns I
  see are amazing and it has been making me think about stained glass
  again. Using the patterns as a model for stained glass would be wow.
I fell for all the purple and different colors in this material, every trip I buy something I may regret. This may be it, but I'll have a tailor make something or hang it on a wall. What do you think?
  And theirs are batik, paint, silk screens, dyes. cow horns carved or painted (got me, I guess cows here have horns or they don't distinguish female/male)
  carvings and wood carvings (a lot of the same everywhere but still
  beautiful). And they don't have all sorts of fancy tools or have to
  have workshops be "just so" like in those glass or woodworking
  magazines. And the sewing machines, those really old black ones we
  consider antiques. Important to remember-I don't need a lot to make
  lovely things, it's a distraction. 
   I tried drawing for the 1st time over the weekend
and the judging in my brain, wow, it is so limiting. What do the>crafts people
and artists think here? Does the need for $$ and food and and keep them from creating? Though there are similar patterns, there are a lot of choices, but do they do what white people will buy or just do for the creating?

Sometimes I have to wonder, if every booth has the same carved wood pieces, are they really made in China?  I was told China has factories here where they make the crap that we get that says "made in China" so is that what these are?

While we wandered the booths, Saundra started asking the sellers if they sell fans. no one did. I thought this would be a great idea, we both did. It gets very very hot, even if the locals don't use them the visitors would buy them as souvenirs  and to move air around, especially in those hot crowded together booths. Today I learned that a chef came here and started buying up the property around his restaurant, he build these warehouse kind of thing and rents all these tiny booths to people to sell things. It would take hours to wander through all of them, it is hot and close inside. And now there is a Doubletree hotel, another lovely hotel, shops, and restaurants on the bay and the owner made his fortune.

It's much like colonialism, white people from Europe, US, corporations come to make money, big money even from starting small. Quite a few artists seem to be represented by foreigners, others are interested in finding dealers who will sell their work. There is a rumor that George Bush has bought a ton of property to develop on the Indian Ocean shore, and that he owns some oil or mining companies, or perhaps water since he bought a big piece of land in South America (Peru?) that is over a large fresh water source. So, where can people go? How can values change or how can people learn?  Certainly the claims of faith don't fit the business or behaviors.  But, a good piece of news--Anna with whom I work, met some people who are developing in her family village, copper mines I think, she walked over to the owner and told him he needs more than geologists, he needs social workers to advise him how to help the people, e.g. hospitals, schools, etc.  He has hired her as a consultant for good $ that he wants to do better for the people. You just never know.

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Tuesday afternoon...

I woke up this morning to no electricity, I realized it went off sometime last night. This means the hot water heater is off too so I was set to wet my hair and do a very quick clean of parts of me. There was still hot water so I felt lucky, more so because by the time I was done, water was down to a dribble. The guards re-set the breaker and all was on again. Then off. Then on. And it was just my little house not anyone else. I went into the office, spent several hours doing searches on teaching people how to put together syllabi and make class schedules when you have no textbooks (hmm. challenge). Got home and they were working on the electrical system, said my electric went on/off all day. It's nice now, comfy and I can cook. Remember-even if you have a gas stove, if it has an electric starter it won't want to light. And I guess they have electric water pumps.

There has been a water crisis in Dar, ours was "getting low" according to Bridget (landlady not dog) and the staff may have to start washing clothes by hand in buckets. I have seen women doing this on the roadside in front of compounds and in front of their homes. I had another privilege moment-people I'm working with have had no water for days, the driver 5 days which means there are others in the office in the same predicament. Then I tried filling up my water bottle in the office, there was none. Then a co-worker said he and his wife eat out too much but he will buy gas for the stove at the end of the month. It is one thing to hear about the everyday "inconveniences" like electric going out or water stopping, it is another to live with it. I am lucky with so much at home, and even here where I get to live. 

Here is another neighbor who met me on the path to my door. Ick. The owner said no matter how many they kill there are always more. hmm. not only couldn't I stand doing it, I'd hate to see a dead smashed one.  Big, very big. maybe 3 inches, I was able to see a bit of grass it was "chewing" on. I prefer the lizards and definitely the birds.




Monday, June 18, 2012

Fun weekend in Dar

What a good weekend, my friend from Western KY, Saundra is here now with 8 social work students. Unfortunately, she was not part of the planning so they are in an icky hostel near the Univ of Dar es Salaam and not much else. But they do have monkeys in the trees there, she is not thrilled with it.

There is a water emergency right now in Dar, meaning, according to my folks here, that they cannot get water replenished and the prices are going up by @ 30%. politics. So, Saundra has not had a hot shower since arriving last week, bathing by bucket when there is water, and that has not been hot. My landlady (there's got to be a better word) said we are getting very low and the housekeepers may have to do laundry by hand soon. Which is what Saundra has had at the hostel.

So, I took Saundra to the Slipway, tons of booths and people selling cloth, batiks, traditional kangas (used as a wrap/skirt or to make shirts, dresses, etc), wood carvings,the tinga tinga art (very bright intense acrylic paintings with amazing colors, shapes, animals, people, etc)And she is one of my "worst"/"best" shopping friends, someone with whom I always end up buying stuff and having fun. And she was much better at bargaining (so HA to those stereotypes about Jews). Then we went to the restaurant on the bay in the same center, delightful red snapper, sauteed veggies still crunch-worthy, and yummy roasted potatoes (there's a picture but not a good one). A long day from 3 till @9pm then back to my little house so she could take her first Tanzanian shower. We decided, at our ages we have done the hostel, peeing and washing in buckets (not the same one) and now we want and deserve comfort, we work hard for the money!   Hot showers, nice hotel/motel room, good food, etc. It was wonderful how excited she was about the shower and my surroundings. Also a good lesson to me--I am so fortunate to be here, have this really nice little place to live, hot water. on and on. 

Whoever planned her trip with sw students was clearly not a social worker, they will visit the same orphanage two different times, see some sights and stay in a hostel needing serious updating with nothing around and away from people and social work schools and agencies they could visit.  Anna in my office and I talked about it, she is arranging for the students to come to our offices next week to learn about the services and we will invite local social work students . There is so much they could experience here within agencies, the govt social service agencies, issues, etc.  I'm glad I was able to introduce Saundra and Anna, their trip will be better and now Saundra has a taxi driver to trust and get away from the hostel.

We stayed up late, drank wine, looked at the goodies we bought, and had a big old time.  And back to work today. So I have some duties to get done: Monday Saundra will bring her students to the office in the afternoon. In the am we have a meeting with the govt accreditation body reps. Then Tuesday I am off to Zanzibar!  I will go with our local volunteer, he is quite pleasant but it's been a long time since I traveled with a stranger and a male at that. But it will be a good break-Wed and Thurs we meet with 2 universities, then don't return until Sunday. BUT, on Monday I have to be prepared to give a workshop for people from 12 schools on what a syllabus is and how to write one. Hmmm, a new one for me.  They will be in Dar for 10 days so I'm looking at spending about 5 days between the workshop and consultations on "lecture" notes and classroom activities/assignments, oh, and what to put online for one school. Ready or not here I am!! But also, what an experience!

Saundra at the bar at our pool





Today's photos---Saundra and I and whatever else I feel like posting :-)

Sunday, June 17, 2012

Lazy Saturday,
ate a lovely pear for breakfast. So far, the fruit has been amazing here. Although I was not thrilled with the oranges, they were dry and not so tasty, the rest have been great-pear, apples, pineapples, mangoes, watermelon, a great avocado today-usually the ones we skip at home because they aren't so good with the smooth skin and larger than typical. But it was yummy, along with the biggest juiciest lemon I've had in a very very long time. Just have to wash them well and peel most of them.

For dinner I actually cooked, well a little. Left over rice, a baby purple eggplant and a tiny white one, sliced ginger (also not at all dry), garlic all sauteed with olive oil, a touch of soy sauce and I threw in some cashews (grown here!) and a few of the wasabi almonds I brought with me from home. Pretty good if I do say so myself.

Just laid around today, sat at the pool awhile reading and playing with my camera (results below), even a little drawing. I felt good, I think I'm getting acclimated and more relaxed. I may get together with Saundra tomorrow, meet for lunch and maybe cruise crafts. I am feeling so fortunate that I am well cared for here. She is here from Western KY and is living in a hostel (which, if you happen to know Saundra is pretty hard to believe) with no hot shower, sometimes no shower and they wash clothes by hand and less to do where she is near the Univ. of Dar es Salaam. I invited her over for a shower and that I could likely throw some clothes in with my laundry. Then, reading this morning, the electric here went down. I was talking to Bridget the landlady and she said they are close to being out of water for the plumbing in all of our houses. Apparently the govt in Dar is saying they've run out of water and there will be a price increase. So she said they may have to wash clothes by hand for several days. She showed me the huge above ground and underground water tanks they use for the compound, pretty amazing.  But, oh no I just told Saundra to come here!  They already wash her clothing by hand she does not need to come here for the same. lol,  Oh well. At least it's a bathroom with privacy and any amount of hot water would likely be better. We'll see.  

I finished another mystery today, so glad for the kindle and that, even though I cannot download films, tv shows, or music I can get books and some games.  And the folks who own the place introduced me to a new yummy South African wine, Blackberg, have never seen it in the US, well, at least in Cedar Falls :-).

Ok, onto pictures from around the compound...

have several photos of these, very pretty berries but don't know if they are edible

he looks very flirty here, but he just woke up

leaf

another recycled Dhow  These are traditional boats, the bar, the benches, assorted pieces around the pool are made of these.  Another thing I'd like to bring back....furniture, tables made of this worn, strong wood,  lots of lines, cracks, worn spots in each piece---history

laying around on a hot day. This is Maxwell the sweetest rottweiler I've ever met. Only problem is that he doesn't realize how big he really is and wants to jump up on people, he runs up and leans against me, the first time I almost fell from the unexpected weight. The 2 dogs compete for love and petting



Wednesday, June 13, 2012

oh and one more thing




just wanted to post a photo from the wedding that I'm really pleased with

a work day plus photos

I met today with the executive committee of the school consortium to present the 3 interviews we put together. They are very interested in getting the data but the challenge will be if I can get 12 schools to respond to pretty long surveys-but it is information that no one in the project has so it's all baseline, from what the curriculum and course sequence is to what is done in field, how is it graded, who grades, how they choose agencies, etc etc then there is the interview about who is doing what, what degrees faculty have and in what along with what they have taught in the past and work experience outside of academia. There is only one social work school and it has existed since the early 1970s so they have some idea of social work. A few programs are starting MSW programs by the end of August, one school does distance learning, there really is no money even for textbooks, and no lecture notes, no classroom activities or assignments. They are concerned. I don't blame them. There is so much to do. We talked about this in the meeting along with the concern that there is one PhD person (Naftali, who attended Champaign/Urbana with Ga Young). So unless he teaches every MSW course in the two programs starting, who teaches? Apparently a teacher who teaches at a "lower level" like BSW can only teach graduate level if there is a higher level teacher in the room.  The conversation turned to how to do this, this group is finding its own way as are the schools all simultaneously, more challenge. One possibility is volunteers from the US come to mentor as senior faculty even for weeks not months. Faculty do generally have social science PhDs but likely more in sociology and social work is very new to them.  Much to do, and yes I did mention we could likely get folks willing to travel and assist but there needs to be funding for the travel.   The challenge of doing a lot of big stuff at once. They have come a long way however, and there is commitment. And people are delightful.  Ok, nuff for this one. I am going to post somewhat random photos--roads, markets, etc.

big market street

pretty bird

posing

tail feathers were beautiful, this was the only way I could show them

the steamroller again. look closely, we are on the "shoulder" next to the ditch and traffic on the driver's side. People are walking in the piled up dirt, steam roller at our bumper. Behind him traffic is facing the other way, just like the 2 motorcycles and the bus. How many lanes? NONE!

a shop

oops there ya go, showing off

a shop for people who can't decide whether to buy a bed or a coffin
Lanes? what lane? where? that way? this way? the other way?

Monday, June 11, 2012

there is no such thing as "on time" in Dar

students? dancers?
bride
Well, to finish after the car adventure on Saturday, we made it to the wedding, figured we would have missed at least most of the ceremony, figured priests and the higher power must start on time (hmmm cause they are usually white? what was I thinking?). But nooooo, we were about 1 hour late and nothing started yet. then we waited more. Finally, it started. The priests spoke Swahili which means I didn't understand but of course, I wouldn't have understood Latin either. It was at a Catholic high school and I think it was the student choir who sang. Now that was fun, I didn't understand, didn't care, didn't even care they were likely psalms. They sounded great, had a great rhythm, moved to the music, sounded and looked joyous.  Made up for the priests going on and on and on.  Differences from US weddings I've been to? Movement Music and Joy. Yes various ethnic groups here are joyous but this was everyone-old ladies and men, kids, everyone walks out of the church in front of the couple. Well not walk, a little dance step step step side side side step and the trilling sound like I thought I learned a bit in belly dancing the lalalal really high but this was different. Women, all ages, and their tongues were spinning in circles in their mouths, incredible. My ears hurt, the hearing aids crackled. Then we wait outside in the dining dancing set up area and they are all stepping out around the couple bringing them to the reception.  We did not stay much longer, we had told the driver to pick us up at 4:30 figuring we'd be there for the ceremony and 1-2 hours of celebration. Nope. Things were now almost 2 hours past the schedule so we missed the food and dancing and entertainment. shucks. Here's pictures 

mom & baby in church

dancing and singing (lalalala) after the ceremony

he was the ring bearer

she was great, ran around the church, stopped and danced as soon as the music started

dancing/stepping in front of the church

the princess and the dancing queen

accompanying the bride and groom, dancing them to the reception

bride and groom dancing into the reception

Saturday, June 9, 2012

Get us to the church on time!

It's Saturday here, 10:30 pm, 2:30 pm your time, well cdt anyway. Today I went to my first Catholic wedding. Also my first Swahili Catholic wedding. Ah, but first there was the car adventure.  As I've said before, we can't go anywhere without a driver. Well, the regular driver could not make it so he sent a friend.
The wedding was several miles out, towards the main road that goes to the rest of the country, it would take about 30 minutes we were told.                           


Ok, driving out this large road, paved, ditches to the left and shops in front of them, on the left, 3 lanes of cars, buses, trucks, scooters, bikes, pedestrians leaving town. On the right, 3 other lanes of cars, buses, trucks, scooters, bikes, etc headed towards downtown and shops on that side. Hot. dusty, fumes, noisy.

Suddenly the car sputtered, I thought perhaps it was overheated, I suggested we open the windows, driver agreed so we did. Sputtering did not stop. The car did. In the lane squeezed between the above mentioned movers and shakers.  The driver speaks English thank goodness. Some men who were standing around help him push the car back, trying to get it off the road. Did I mention the ditch? It was ok, we missed it, otherwise the car would have rolled quite a bit, it was wide, and about 5 foot deep. Some of the guys pushing us were on the ditch side, lucky since we got mighty close. I was holding the 20,000 Tanzanian shillings to pay the driver. I think he was embarrassed because he grabbed a 10k bill from me and got out of the car. And left. to find petrol. First he bent into the car and asked for the other 10k. Then he left, looking for petrol on foot. One of the car pushers stayed to watch over us, 2 white older women sitting in a car in the way of traffic and next to a ditch. So we chatted, he is from Zanzibar which he likes much better than Dar because it is safe and beautiful. 

Ok, so the driver returns, fills the tank and our new buddies begin to push the car back into traffic. However, now there is a steam roller, yes that's what I said, a steam roller in front of the car, I mean not just in front, but facing us, strange since the rest of the traffic was going the other way, including us. The steam roller managed to not hit us but did keep going, passing very very close next to us, inches, really. I couldn't quite get the photo of the passing but there's one here that's close. So 45 minutes after we stalled out, we continue driving to the church, making us almost an hour late, but a happy ending since weddings here are also on African time, we were there for the whole long service. But more on that tomorrow.

it may not look so close here, but I took the pic out the front window, you can see a bit of the windshield wiper but not the hood. So he is at the right front bumper

traffic

we are all on the road

people in the street ditch on their left shopping on top and left of ditch


crossing the street, risky because cars don't stop

market